Guarding the last likeness of a loathed dictator? It’s a thankless job.

Swaddled in straw on the dirt floor of a stable, the once omnipotent dictator lies helpless on his back. His face specked with bird droppings, he stares blankly at the sagging roof, a final indignity for a leader whose all-seeing eyes held millions in terrified thrall for four decades. Enver Hoxha, who died in 1985,…